SOTU wine review

Mas Carlot 2005 Les Enfants Terribles Costieres de Nimes. $13. This wine is named for the winemakers' four children, who must be quite a handful. The name suggests a youthful, brash wine. While the vintage is young, the wine is less brash than one might think. A blend of old-vine Mourvedre and Syrah grapes, this red definitely needs a lot of breathing before its complexity becomes apparent. It made even our fine president's speech seem a little bit more weighty. Alas, it could work no magic of the plethora of bad hairstyles in the room. Maybe I would have needed to drink the whole bottle to make Margaret Spellings look cute.